F

Face n. As defined by the RESET TEAM'S PLAN-O-GRAM, the front-most rank of packages of any single PRODUCT, oriented side-by-side on the SHELF and extending for the full width of the ITEM'S given HOLE: "This should be a 3-Face." —v. See BLOCK: "Face it off."

NOTE: If ever in doubt, the Face count is printed on every ITEM'S SHELF TAG.

The smallest is a 1-Face, for ITEMS arranged with one in front and the rest straight behind it in a single file. Such 1-Faces are no particular problem for bigger ITEMS like, say, cake mixes. However, when it comes to small things like tiny cans of cat food or feather-light BOXES of flavored gelatin, oh, baby! A 1-Face can really test your patience.

What to do? One good survival tip, when things are really tight, is to take a neighboring ITEM out -- temporarily -- before you try to put your ITEM in. This can make an impossibly small HOLE at least big enough for you to fit in your hand and arm, should you need to, say, dig into the back to right and STACK PRODUCT that's tipped over. Once you've got things back under control, you can then slide any neighboring ITEM(S) you removed earlier back into their proper position(s).

Fast-Wall n. A long, contiguous series of featured SALES DISPLAYS that include BACKDROPS at the very front of the STORE, just inside the main entrance. VENDORS pay a fee to the STORE for SLOTS in this special, "See me first" area.

Float n. See RUNNER.

Floor n. See SALES FLOOR: "Don't take power jacks out onto the floor."

Front n. 1. The FAST-WALL and EVZ: "Remember to block the front." 2. The end of any aisle closest to the checkout registers: "That's on the left at the front of aisle 3." Also TOP. 3. See FACE.

Front-End n. 1. The DEPARTMENT and/or MANAGER responsible for all checkout cashiers: "Who's on front-end today?" 2. See FRONT (1). 3. The side of the STORE closest to the front entrance.

G

G n. Garbage. See CODE-G, GARBAGE COMPACTOR.

Garbage n. See CODE-G, GARBAGE COMPACTOR.

Garbage Compactor n. A usually locked chute down which DEPARTMENTS may toss their garbage whenever the M.O.D. unlocks it and calls a CODE-G.

NOTE:

The compactor is kept locked to minimize SHRINK, which may include the accidental or intentional dumping of viable PRODUCT.

There are stories of rogue NIGHT CREWS (always at some other STORE, of course) who would occasionally trash portions of LOAD rather than take the time to THROW it. Urban legend? You decide.

Gate n. Any of the roll-up tambour-style metal portcullis doors in the RECEIVING DEPARTMENT, which, when unlocked and opened via its hanging looped chain mechanism, provide via an adjustable cross-over plate approximately level walk-in access to the trailers brought by the TRUCK. The normal state of the Gate is closed and ARMED.

General Merchandise n. The DEPARTMENT that deals with inedible non-perishables such as toothbrushes, shampoos, makeup, toys, CLIP STRIPS of ITEMS hanging from SHELVES around the STORE, and so on. Also simply GM.

Get Around v. In general, to make a complete circuit of either the entire STORE, or your DEPARTMENT'S area of responsibility. Specifically, to tidy up and BLOCK those areas: "Be sure to get around." (E.g., at the end of your shift.) See also, WALK THE STORE.

Glass n. From "PLEXIGLASS." Thick, slightly flexible plastic sheets are pre-cut to size, some with two rounded corners, for use in DISPLAYS, where they are laid horizontally to separate and support STACKED layers of PRODUCT. Also, PLEXI.

Glider n. See RUNNER.

GM n. See GENERAL MERCHANDISE: (Page:) "Someone from GM please call extension 300."

Go v. When the entire contents one or more full or partially-full CASES completely fits in the available space or SPOT on the SHELF: "It'll go," or "Make it go." See also HIDE, JAM.

Goodwill n. A CUSTOMER'S desire to return to a place of business where they have been well served. "Customer goodwill keeps us in business!"

Goose-Neck n. A SIGN HOLDER whose frame is elevated on a long, either fixed-length or adjustable support. See also DUCK-FOOT.

Grocery n. You know: a STORE where you can buy food and stuff.

NOTE: Up until a hundred years or so ago, a Grocery was a tavern, or place to procure liquor! Wow -- our INVENTORY sure has changed!

Grocery Manager n. The immediate boss of STOCK CLERKS, including all those on both DAY-SHIFT and NIGHT CREW. The Grocery Manager gives instructions, handles PRODUCT ordering using the GUN, interacts with VENDORS, manages INVENTORY, directs the building of DISPLAYS, etc.

Gun n. A special hand-held BARCODE SCANNER that is Wi-Fi connected to the STORE'S computer, and which can be used to obtain PRICING, INVENTORY, or other PRODUCT information, or to place orders for PRODUCTS, update INVENTORY counts, etc. Typically used by DEPARTMENT or STORE MANAGERS. See also BACK-STOCK, INVENTORY, NEGATIVE ORDER WORKSHEET, OVERSTOCK: "Put that in the gun."

NOTE: There are some things you just can't say over the STORE'S PA. Like "Garbage" -- we call it "CODE-G," remember?

Well another no-no would be "Gun," as in, "Price Control, please bring a Gun to aisle 5." Now, stop and think. How does that sounds to CUSTOMER ears? A GUN?

Funny? Not if someone drops dead of a heart attack. Better call it something else. For example, "Price Control, please bring a hand-held stock Scanner to aisle 5."

H

H-Cut v. To open a CARDBOARD or plastic wrapped CASE by making an H-shaped cut in its top surface. —n. Such an H-shaped cut. See also LIFT-CUT, SHARK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, WINDOW-CUT, X-CUT. See also RIM LOCK.

NOTE: The benefit of an H-cut is it's one of the least invasive cuts, and most importantly of all, it preserves the integrity of the CASE'S sides. This is no big deal if you know for certain that the entire CASE will GO. But, if you're unsure, or you expect to have leftovers, what happens next? The answer is, the remainder of the CASE most likely gets STACKED -- either on a SPECIALS CART or an OVERSTOCK RUNNER -- and you'll need the CASE to be as strong and sturdy as possible to protect both the PRODUCT and you against any potential mishaps.

Technically, you might call the way you open a standard CARDBOARD CASE with a middle seam on top an H-cut, since if you cut the two sides and the seam, it is H-shaped. However, that's just a standard TAPE-CUT, and not what we're talking about here. Here, we mean a cut covering an area smaller than the full top of the CASE.

Hand JACK n. See JACK.

Hide v. To place a slight excess of a PRODUCT somewhere close to its regular HOLE on the SHELF, once the HOLE itself has been completely filled: "Hide up to 2 or 3 extra items -- no more."

NOTE: Why Hide? Because it saves time and trouble. Picture it: you've filled the HOLE, except you have one or two ITEMS left over. As appropriate, do you take them back to the SPECIALS RUNNERS or BACK-STOCK them? It depends...

Generally speaking, you should not attempt to Hide big, bulky ITEMS like gi-gundo bags of dog food, or mega-canisters of laundry detergent. Neither should you try to Hide something that MOVES very slowly, like, say, a specialty imported chutney.

It's generally OK to Hide it if:

• after filling its assigned HOLE, you only have 1, 2, or at most 3 ITEMS left over
  
• it's relatively small
• it's popular, has high turn-over, and the Hidden ITEMS will soon be reunited with the rest of the STOCK in the right SPOT
  
• there's enough space either to the left or the right of its assigned HOLE
• you can't JAM the extra where it belongs

When possible, JAMMING is preferable to Hiding, because it doesn't disturb other ITEMS.

Hiding a slight excess among neighboring ITEMS to the left or right is preferable to a SPOT on another SHELF above or below because on the same SHELF it's more easily discovered and more easily corrected as ITEMS are sold, or perhaps, as NIGHT CREW does its finishing BLOCK.

It's generally better to Hide shallow, behind just a few neighboring ITEMS, and not all the way at the back of the neighboring HOLE. Remember, you want Hidden ITEMS to be restored to their proper HOLE sooner rather than later. It's bad if, say, the same size and shape of pickle jar is buried and goes undiscovered at the back of a neighboring HOLE when the ITEM'S proper HOLE has run empty. The goal is to not mess up the ordering and INVENTORY control system.

High-Lift n. A heavy, powered, walk-behind forklift capable of lifting a loaded PALLET up to about three stories high and extending its fork to insert and remove it from the OVERSTOCK RACKS in the BACK ROOM. See also JACK.

Hole n. 1. A PRODUCT'S normally assigned SPOT on the SHELF. 2. A SPOT that's either nearly or completely empty.

Hollow n., adj. A DISPLAY characteristic, as having a false front and interior supports; same as DUMMIED UP: "Build it hollow." Contrast SOLID.

Hollow Out v. To take PRODUCT from the interior of a DISPLAY, behind its FACE, usually to build it up higher again: "Hollow out that display."

I

In-and-Out n. An ITEM that's available only for a short time, while supplies last. Often supplied as a SHIPPER.

In-Stock adv. Immediately available in the STORE, and for sale. Contrast RECALLED.

In the GUN n. Entered on the NEGATIVE ORDER WORKSHEET: "Is that already in the gun?" See GUN. See also BACK-STOCK, INVENTORY, OVERSTOCK.

Inventory n. 1. The total on-hand quantity of one or more ITEMS, up to the total of everything in the STORE. 2. See BACK-STOCK: "Put that in inventory." —v. The act of enumerating such totals: "Next week we take inventory."

NOTE: Inventory reminds me of Goldilocks and the Three Bears...

You don't want to have too much; too much and you've tied up a lot of money in stuff that's just sitting around in your BACK ROOM. Nothing gets sold out of the BACK ROOM, so that's a waste.

On the other hand, you don't want to have too little; too little, and you run out of things, disappoint the CUSTOMERS who otherwise would have bought what you don't have, so they go elsewhere, and you eventually may go out of business -- um,... Not Good.

What you want is for your Inventory levels to be ju-s-t ri-g-h-t. Hence the system we have, where incoming ITEMS are WORKED to the SHELF, and slight excesses are managed as SPECIALS and OVERSTOCK.

Meanwhile, SALE ITEMS may rotate through DISPLAYS in a cascade of decreasing size from EVZ, FAST-WALL and END-CAPS, to 3-WAYS and WINGS and finally back down to the SHELF, with ITEMS being injected into this cycle at any point.

Orchestrating this ballet is the job of the GROCERY MANAGER, and the entire upwards chain of STORE management. Inventory control is a critical aspect of merchandising efforts everywhere, and a major field of study. We certainly can't do it justice here. Yet, we can note its importance and admire it.

Keeping Inventory levels generally low is A Very Good Thing, and has a very positive impact on the STORE'S overall profitability.

Inventory Day n. A reality check, or snapshot, where all STOCK on hand is counted and reconciled vs. the tallies on record.

NOTE: Starting a few days ahead of time, every full and every partial CASE in the BACK ROOM must get marked with the quantity inside, and the ITEM'S REGULAR PRICE, e.g., 9 x 0.67 or 48 x 1.39, and so on. On the day itself, these all get tallied up by a special outside Inventory Team.

Inventory Team n. An external team of people who specialize in taking INVENTORY.

I.P.M.s n. "Items Per Minute." A measure of a checkout cashier's productivity. I.e., their CUSTOMER throughput, based on how fast they SCAN.

NOTE: There's apparently been a gradual downward trend over the years in the Front-End team's average. Nowadays, I.P.M.s above 30 are great! Above 20, good. Below 10, get immediate help!

Item n. 1. A single unit quantity of something that's for sale: "Seven items or less." 2. The aggregate class of any such thing: "I can't find this item on the shelf."

Item-Not-Found n. The notification a cashier reads on-screen at a check-out register whenever the ITEM just SCANNED is not listed in the STORE'S computer. Usually results in a PAGE requesting a PRICE CHECK.

NOTE: Besides the obvious error of something not being in the computer when it should, another possible reason for getting Item-Not-Found might be that it was DISCONTINUED, DISCOUNTED and put on the DISCOUNT RACK, but somehow the DISCOUNT TAG either fell off or the cashier somehow mistakenly scanned the UPC on the original LABEL. Since DISCONTINUED ITEMS are not maintained in the records, attempting to scan one at checkout results in "Item-not-found."

Occasionally a CUSTOMER will root out one or two DISCONTINUED ITEMS that were inadvertently left on the SHELF. Same result.

As a STOCK CLERK, if you can't resolve the issue by inspecting LABELS, UPC bar codes and SHELF TAGS, or by asking the GROCERY MANAGER, it's then up to the FRONT-END MANAGER to deal with it -- perhaps by setting an acceptable PRICE, or by withdrawing the ITEM and sending it back to the RECEIVER for resolution at a later time.

J

J-Hook n. A type of CLIP STRIP characterized by a long metal rod having many small attached spring clips down its length, and terminating on top with a bent, candy cane or J shape, which slips into a special J-HOOK HOLDER. See also J-HOOK HOLDER, CLIP STRIP.

NOTE: J-Hooks are also sometimes hung from the front edge of a sheet of PLEXIGLASS separating layers of a FAST-WALL or EVZ DISPLAY using one of the small wire handles of a regular black, metal binder-clip, as may be purchased from any stationary store.

Also, sometimes they are simply slipped over the upright CARDBOARD edge of a WINDOW-CUT or TRAY-CUT or other such suitable CARDBOARD CASE.

J-Hook Holder n. A unique shiny steel bracket that has two prongs on its flat upper surface, which are bent slightly so to as to slip into perforations in SHELF surface near its edges, and which thus lies flat with the SHELF surface underneath any PRODUCT overburden. The bracket protrudes outwards from the shelf about two inches (2.5 mm) and has two ears which are folded downward on either side, each containing a suitably sized hole to accommodate a J-HOOK, thus allowing one such bracket to support two J-HOOKS, back to back. See also J-HOOK, CLIP STRIP.

NOTE: Be careful -- these things can do serious damage to your elbow if you're working a top SHELF nearby and not paying close attention.

Jack n. A two-tined rolling fork lift with a manual pump handle that's used to raise (up to several inches), move and DROP PALLETS. Also HAND JACK. See also POWER JACK, HIGH-LIFT.

Jam v. To force all, a greater quantity than usual, or sometimes excessive amount of any ITEM into its HOLE. —adv. Completely full: "It's jammed."

NOTE: Some things, like glass jars, are just not meant to be Jammed. Better to just keep it on the RUNNER or BACK-STOCK the excess and move on.

K

Key n. 1. The means to unlock either the GATE to the TRUCK or the door to the POP SHELLS PORCH in RECEIVING: "Who's got the key?" 2. The means to unlock the chute to the GARBAGE COMPACTOR in the GROCERY BACK ROOM.

NOTE: As a matter of STORE policy, when not in active use, every perimeter door or outside access point is always to be kept locked, with its ALARM ARMED. This helps prevent THEFT or other forms of SHRINK. Sensible, but this means that to do your job of the moment, you'll sometimes need to get the Key. The Key should always be in the possession of either the DEPARTMENT MANAGER or MANAGER-ON-DUTY. Considering the responsibility it represents, always take extremely good care of the Key, and return it immediately.

Kill v. To completely take down or remove a PRODUCT DISPLAY: "Kill that Detergent."

NOTE: Unless told otherwise, Kill always includes WORKING the removed ITEMS, i.e., first to the SHELF and then to either the SPECIALS RUNNERS or BACK-STOCK with both the CODE and quantity of remaining CASES being put in the GUN.

Knife n. See BOX CUTTER.

L

Label n. A directly printed-on or applied printed indicator of a CASE or PRODUCT'S manufacturer, name, contents, UPC code and/or other necessary information, often with distinctive designs and branding graphics: "Check the label's UPC number."

Label-Forward adv., adj. To position a PRODUCT on the SHELF so that the front of it's LABEL faces forward and is clearly visible to the CUSTOMER: "Always throw label-forward."

NOTE: Most CUSTOMERS buy based on what they see. If they can't clearly see the label they know and are expecting to find, it inhibits their buying. Not good. Turn every label FACE forward. It's STORE policy, well worth it, and you'll get faster at it with continual practice.

Lift n. 1. See HIGH-LIFT. 2. See JACK. —v. To raise up.

Lift-Cut v. To CUT while lifting a portion of external packaging upward and away from the interior contents in order to avoid accidental damage. —n. Any cut so made. See also BOX CUTTER, H-CUT, SHARK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, WINDOW-CUT, X-CUT.

NOTE:

For BOXES cut the two side flap tapes first, then insert a finger off to the side and pull up to create a peaked rooftop effect, then -- taking care to avoid your finger -- cut the elevated taped center seam.

For plastic-bagged CASES first carefully poke a hole in the exterior wrapper in a place where the contents are not endangered, insert a finger and pull upwards to create a tent effect, then -- always taking care to avoid your finger -- cut down and away, carefully sliding your finger along to maintain an elevated separation between the wrapper and the package contents.

Load n. 1. The contents of the TRUCK that need to be THROWN, typically by NIGHT CREW: "We've got several extra runners of load." 2. The entire contents of the STORE at any given time. Also INVENTORY.

Loading Dock n. Where the TRUCK backs up to the GATE in the RECEIVING DEPARTMENT to be loaded and unloaded. Also DOCK.

Lock n. 1. A desirable trait, only characteristic of some cans, where the bottom rim has a smaller circumference than the top, thus permitting them to easily and securely nest one on top of another: "Locking cans are so much easier to stack!" 2. See RIM LOCK.

Lock-Up n. An area kept under lock and KEY for anti-theft, security reasons: "That's in lock-up."

Lot n. 1. The main parking Lot in front of the STORE. 2. ITEMS with a common date of manufacture, expiration date, etc.

Lotto n. Any state-sponsored lottery. See also SCRATCHER.

NOTE: A popular way for many EMPLOYEES to gamble away some of what little money they've earned.

Lunch n. 1. For shifts over six hours, a mandatory half-hour BREAK, which, regardless of time of day, is always punched into the TIME CLOCK as "Meal." 2. Not available to immediately respond to pages or instructions (except for dire emergencies) because of taking such a mandatory meal BREAK: "I'm on lunch."

M

Make a BALE v. The process of emptying the full BALER, disposing of the BALE itself, and making the device ready for the next BALE.

NOTE: There are several variations on how to do this. Over the years, I've tried a few, and as a result, here's what I think really works best.

It's much, much easer to do than it is to describe, so don't worry about how many steps there are. It's really only a few simple steps, but with lots of added description in an attempt to make it as clear as possible. And -- because this way avoids many potential hassles -- it's also the fastest way I know of, overall. You save a lot of time and trouble for the next person -- which just might also be you.

So. Both better and faster. What's not to like? In outline, here's how to do it:

1. READY? -- Collect "Lid" CARDBOARD In Advance
   • During your SHIFT, make sure to save up large, flat pieces of sturdy CARDBOARD -- e.g., from SHIPPER cartons, Paper Towel CASES, etc. -- and store them behind the BALER.
     
     
2. GET SET... -- Verify, Clear Out Trouble, and Make a Lid
   
   
• VERIFY: Is it really time for a Bale?
• Is BALER halted, with grate down and red "Bale Made" indicator on control panel lit?
• YES?
• Definitely full, and time for a BALE!
  
  
• NO?
• CHECK and see if BALER is really full:
• CLOSE the BALER'S wire safety grate and PUSH the AUTO button to cycle the BALER as usual.
• WATCH the I-beam atop the compression platten. When it pauses at the lowest point of its travel cycle, compare its top edge to the top edge of the BALER'S side door. It should be not much, if any, higher than the top edge of the BALER'S solid side door.
  
  So, where is it? Is the I-Beam...
• BELOW door top by more than a few inches?
• Not enough for a standard BALE. Only continue if manager confirms go ahead. Otherwise, come back later.
• AT or NEAR door's top edge?
• Perfect! Time to make a BALE.
• ABOVE door top by more than a few inches?
• May be too full to easily make a BALE; consider taking out the excess to set aside. You can put it back in later, after you've finished making this BALE, when the chamber is once again empty.
  
  
• VERIFY: Got CARDBOARD for lids?
• NO?
• Uh-oh! Someone squished your stash behind the BALER! You need to find more in a hurry.
• Signal others to add no more CARDBOARD until BALE is made.
• Close safety grate, push AUTO to cycle BALER as usual, but at lowest point press the red EMER(gency) STOP button.
• Quickly scrounge around for suitable large flat CARDBOARD, starting with the Bakery's CARDBOARD dumpster. If all else fails, gather and break down six BANANA BOXES , e.g., from the Produce DEPARTMENT.
• Got BOARD? If necessary, pull out red EMER(gency) STOP button you may have previously depressed, and press and hold the MAN(ual) UP button until the safety grate rises.
  
  
• YES? Continue.
  
• Clear Out Trouble: No excess, No stuck fragments, No tape
• If there's a drastically irregular, sloped or otherwise uneven surface, or if there's simply too much jammed inside, it's easiest to just take out whatever you deem to be a potential problem, set it aside, and put it back in later, after the BALER is empty.
• Now, get a MILK CRATE to stand on (one should usually be nearby), and clean out any CARDBOARD fragments stuck up in the cracks around the underside of the BALER'S platten.
• Also make sure no tape is stuck up in any of the 6 wire-guide channels set into its underside.
  
  
• Put A Lid On It
  
• Make a top "lid" for the BALE by putting layers of the large flat CARDBOARD you've collected just for this purpose on top of the already compressed CARDBOARD inside the BALER. Hold aside enough flat stock to likewise make a bottom lid of one or two layers in a later step. The lids will help keep the channels open so you can more easily thread in the BALE WIRES later.
  
  
3. GO! -- MAKE THE BALE
   
   
• Squish It Again
  
• Close the safety grate and cycle the BALER. When it reaches its bottom limit (listen for a change to a higher audible pitch), press and hold the MAN(ual) DOWN button to compress the BALE as tightly as possible.
  
  
• Open Wide
  
• Release the button and unlock the BALER'S side door by operating the wheel screw on the control side of the BALER. Then use the door handle to swing out the side door until it's wide open -- past 90° -- and expose the edge-on side of the BALE. The grate should also pop open by itself and lift out of the way as soon as you tug on the side door. If not, get help.
  
  
• Clear Away Junk
  
• Put an upside down MILK CRATE in front of the open BALER, get up, and inspect the top of the platten in its "down" position. Remove any CARDBOARD fragments. Pay special attention to any stuck down in the groove along the back edge, otherwise in the next step they might block your ramrod.
  
  
• Ream Out Channels
  
• Locate the large iron ramrod pipe kept behind the BALER, and plunge it into the wire channels on the underside of the platten on top of the BALE until you make contact with the metal frame at the back of each channel. If necessary, use the ramrod to break through any obstructing CARDBOARD, jack-hammer style. (If the lid you set in place earlier is thick and strong, it minimizes difficulties here.) If you're still unable to clear a particular channel, try the next one over. Your aim is to clear at least five of the six available channels.
  
  
• Get Bale Wire
  
• After the channels are cleared, go to the elevated BALE WIRE tray along the back wall and select 5 strands. Pull them out carefully, in a gentle arc, to avoid kinks and bends.
  
  
• Thread Wire Channels
  
• Starting with a channel on either outer edge, thread the individual strands one at a time, loop-end first into each of the channels, gently pushing the wires in until the loop protrudes about six inches out of the channel opening at the bottom of the BALE.
  
  If the wire becomes stuck, try to back it out for another try. If you can't, take the ramrod you used earlier, wrap the tail of the stuck wire several times around it to create a handle, and carefully pull the wire out and discard it.
  
  Try again with a fresh piece of wire, this time feeding the straight end of the wire in first. If that doesn't work, remove it as before, and try the next channel. The goal is to feed at least 5 wires completely around the bulk of the bale. In a pinch, 4 may have to do, but is definitely not advised. In such a 4-wire case, consider the extreme measure of threading a second, reinforcing wire through an outside channel that has no threaded neighbor within a distance of two empty channels.
  
  
• Twist 'Em Tight
  
• One at a time, for each wire, thread the straight end of the wire into the hole of the looped end and take up most of the slack, so that while you pull on the wire the loop stands only a few inches off of the BALE surface, ideally only about a quarter to a third of the way up the face of the BALE from where the loop exited the channel. By leaving enough slack to pass your hand freely around the wire, you should avoid any paper cuts from the edge of the BALE as you twist the wire in a later step.
  
  Later, as pressure is taken off the compressed BALE, any slack you leave now will disappear anyway, so it's nothing to worry about.
• Right at the loop, put a hairpin bend in the straight wire so that it reverses direction at the point where it exits the loop. Then, reach behind the two lengths of wire with your other hand, and pull the middle part of the free-ended wire around to the front. As you do this, the loose end of the wire should catch the other wire segment at the edge of the BALE all by itself, and hold its position. The goal is to create a vaguely D-shaped handle out of the loose portion of the wire.
• Twist this D-shaped part of the wire around and around the tight portion of wire several times, until it has become too small to easily turn.
• Take the loose, pointy excess end of the wire and turn it around and under the wrapped wire so it won't poke you or anyone else as you work your way across the open face of the BALE.
  
  Again, other methods of tying BALE WIRE exist, but they are also more likely to cause the wire to slip or break.
  
  
• Place a Pallet
  
• When all wires are in place, get a solidly built PALLET (plastic or CHEP, not flimsy plain wood), and center it with its long edge about 5 or 6 inches from the foot of the exposed BALE.
  
  
• All Clear? Stand Back...
• 
  WARNING: You're about to put the BALE WIRES under great strain. If one or more wires break, it can be extremely dangerous. No one can dodge a supersonic wire whip. Not to mention, the BALE literally weighs a ton! So,...
  
• Get everyone and everything out of harm's way. Clear out the space at least 20 feet forward of the open side of the BALER. Ensure it stays clear until after the BALE has been safely ejected. ...Including you too!
  
• Stand off to the side of the BALER, and operate its controls from just around the corner.
  
  
• Eject!
• When all is clear, press and hold the MAN(ual) UP button to raise the BALER platten and then engage the kick plate that will tip out the BALE.
• The compressed CARDBOARD stack will expand and take up any slack left in the wires.
• If you wrapped them properly as instructed, and used the correct number, they shouldn't slip, and are unlikely to break.
• Continue to push the MAN(ual) UP button until the BALER'S bottom kicker plate has engaged, tipped the BALE forward, and caused it to topple out onto the PALLET you previously set in place.
• Trouble? NEVER let any part of your person get between the tipping BALE and the PALLET its falling towards, no matter if its slow or completely stuck. Don't get hurt -- get help!
  
  
• Tote That Bale
  
• Get a JACK or POWER JACK and move the BALE and PALLET combination aside.
• If the GATE to the TRUCK is locked, DROP the PALLET so the BALE sits short-end-forward right in front of the GATE, but not so close that it obstructs the raising of the GATE'S protruding bottom lip.
• On the other hand, if the GATE is open, put the PALLET and BALE on the TRUCK, tight against the outer wall, making sure it's on the side opposite any previous BALE, if present, so the weights of multiple BALES counter-balance each other.
• Remember to add one to both the PALLET and BALE tallies in the appropriate columns of the SHEET kept at the RECEIVING desk.
  
  
4. MAKE READY
   
   
• Clean Out Scraps, Tape, etc.
  
• When you return to the BALER, pay special attention to the BALE WIRE channels at the back and along the bottom of the BALER cavity. They must be completely cleaned out.
• To begin, find a ready-to-recycle, sturdy BOX flap, cut it off, and you have a "broom." If necessary, use it to sweep any loose CARDBOARD scraps or other debris resting on the bottom of the BALER chamber itself.
• Next, fold this same severed BOX flap in half to create a long, narrow U-shaped channel scraper. The rounded fold at the end does the work, as it more or less matches the interior shape of the channel.
• Starting at the top rear of the chamber, slide your disposable scrapper deep into the first channel. Drag it down, then out along the shallow bottom, so any debris exits the open side of the cavity.
• Repeat this scrape-out for each and every channel.
• Because it's surprisingly easy to block the next piece of BALE WIRE to be threaded through, it's important to ensure not even the smallest CARDBOARD scrap, tape, sticker or anything else remains in any channel.
  
  
• Reset the Kick Plate
  
• Swing the BALER door closed, but don't tighten the hinge locking screw. Instead, save time by simply pushing the bottom of the door closed with your foot. Meanwhile, reach for and lower the wire mesh safety grate. If the safety grate won't latch, push harder with your foot to close any gap between the door and BALER frame.
• 
  
  WARNING: You're about to make an extremely loud noise that could otherwise damage your hearing. So, with one hand COVER YOUR EAR on the side of your head towards the BALER cavity. SPEAK UP, and say, e.g., "LOUD NOISE" to warn anyone else in the area (e.g., the RECEIVER, VENDORS, etc.).
  
  
• Then, push and hold the MAN(ual) DOWN button until the previously raised kicker plate inside the BALER falls back down -- CLANG! -- to lie once again flat on the bottom of the BALER cavity.
• Remove your foot, swing the door back open and allow the grate to rise.
  
  
• Lay Down a Bottom
  
• The goal here is to ensure no channels become blocked as CARDBOARD is added to create the next BALE. So, make a "Bottom" by laying one or two layers of flat CARDBOARD from your supply over the entire bottom of the BALER cavity. It won't need to be as thick as the top lid. Two layers is better, but even one will do in a pinch. (If you're desperately short on BOARD, you can even omit covering the kicker plate, as no wire passes under it.)
  
• Again swing the BALER door closed, but this time do tighten the hinge locking screw, so the open edge of the door is secured as tightly as possible.
  
  
• Clean Up
  
• TOSS IN CARDBOARD fragments or empty CASES, etc. that didn't fit into the BALER earlier, or which folks may have brought over while you were making the BALE.
• SWEEP UP any debris.
• WASH UP at THE SINK, since BALE WIRE is grimy stuff your hands are probably very dirty, and then,
• You're done!

Make a SPOT v. See CUT IN.

Make It GO v. To force an ITEM to the SHELF, and not return any of it to the BACK ROOM. Within reason, this instruction means -- if you must -- JAM or HIDE any slight excess. See GO.

NOTE: You never want to do too much violence to the established order. So, if you have a lot of excess, you should being it back, regardless. It's possible your MANAGER or CREW CHIEF wasn't aware that, e.g., someone else had already filled the SPOT.

Man n. Any team member, regardless of gender: "We were down a man last night."

Manager n. 1. A person in charge of one or more DEPARTMENTS. 2. Short for MANAGER-ON-DUTY: (page) "Manager to the FRONT-END, please."

Manager-On-Duty n. The most senior MANAGER in the STORE at any given time, or whomever has been deputized to serve as acting STORE MANAGER.

Margin n. The profit made from selling an ITEM after accounting for all overhead expenses like shipping, labor, and other costs.

NOTE: The higher an ITEM'S Margin, the more profitable it is for the STORE. Couple that with high TURNOVER on the SHELF and you have A Very Good Thing.

My hunch is that if you also consider rate of TURNOVER and other factors, bottled water may be the most profitable thing in the STORE.

Mark-Down RUNNER n. A RUNNER in the BACK ROOM upon which the RECEIVER puts reduced-priced DISCONTINUED or DAMAGED ITEMS still suitable for sale at a reduced PRICE, and which is periodically (e.g., at CLOSING) taken up to the FRONT END for the U-SCAN operator to put onto the DISCOUNT RACK.

Marker n. A chisel-point, felt-tip writing implement with black, permanent ink used for writing STOCK NUMBERS and other information and notations on PRODUCT CASES.

NOTE: Carry two (2) markers, so you don't get stuck when the first one runs dry. Wrap a rubber band around the barrel of the unused one as a signal that it's brand new, and keep it in a different pocket. Just keep using the one without the rubber band until it runs out. That way you'll also avoid having two dried up markers at the same time.

Mezz n. See MEZZANINE: "It's under the Mezz."

Mezzanine n. A large interior raised platform accessed by stairs or through chained-off gaps in the railing that creates an interior second floor storage area inside the BACK ROOM. Typically used for storing seasonal DISPLAYS, unused END-CAP and 3-WAY shelving, spare Produce tables, etc.

Milk Crate n. A sturdy, stackable and reusable wire-frame container with a heavy-duty plastic bottom, or similar, fully plastic container used to ship cartons of milk or other dairy PRODUCTS. Also simply CRATE: "Crate that up."

NOTE: There is a daily flow of CRATES between Dairy and Grocery DEPARTMENTS because they are so strong, so readily available, and so convenient to use. For instance, they get "borrowed" to hold and protect glass jars coming off DISPLAYS and being transported to the BACK ROOM on RUNNERS. Either at the end of the SHIFT, or whenever a sufficient number of empties pile up in Grocery, they're returned to Dairy. Dairy will periodically load their seemingly endless supply of empty Milk Crates onto PALLETS, WRAP them, and put them on the TRUCK to make room for more.

CAUTION: Now, while it's certainly not OSHA-approved, one way to get a few feet of extra height above what the usual footstool provides -- e.g., when you need to quickly get a really good view of what's happening up on the aisle's top SHELF, say, to clean up a spill -- is to create a "stairway" of three to six crates stacked upside down, each stack one higher than the previous.

WARNING: Since the wire or plastic bottom crate in contact with the waxed FLOOR is prone to slide, be sure to walk up, do your business, and descend, all very carefully.

The safer, OSHA-approved way is to get one of the sturdy and bulky rolling blue ladders with those nice handrails. A medium-height one is sometimes kept in the bottle-return storeroom adjacent to the CUSTOMER SERVICE DESK, or in the BULK FOODS DEPARTMENT BACK ROOM.

Minus, (-) v. Refers to the SHEET, and means to record the removal of one or more CASES taken out of BACK-STOCK: "Shouldn't I minus this?"

Mispick n. An unexpected, un-ordered ITEM received in error as part of the regular LOAD because of a mistaken selection made at the WAREHOUSE. Compare DISTRIBUTION.

Mix n. When written on a CASE in MARKER and circled, a STOCK CLERK'S notation meaning more than one ITEM is in the CASE so marked. Usually done as an effort to conserve space on the CART. See also CASE NOTATIONS.

M.O.D. n. See MANAGER-ON-DUTY.

Mop n. 1. A regular, long-handled janitorial device for cleaning up various liquids spilled on a floor. A string Mop. 2. A broad-ended janitorial device for the collection of dust and small dry debris by pushing a long, freely-pivoting handle. A dust Mop. —v. To use a Mop: "(Dry) mop up under the Mezz before you go."

Move v. To sell an ITEM, and for it to thus be depleted from its SPOT on the SHELF: "Those spiced crackers just aren't moving."

NOTE: Generally, the faster things Move, or turn over, the better.

Mus-ick! n. What you hear over the STORE PA when no other announcement is being made.

NOTE: Canned STORE music is pretty hideous, and gets somewhat monotonous after the first year or so. Depending on your seniority, one of the fringe benefits of working NIGHTS is that (via boom box or iPod) you may get to listen to your own music! The PA is still there, but you can crank up your own volume, just so long as you keep an ear tuned to the CREW CHIEF'S PA call for BREAKS and lunch.

No such luck for DAY CREW, who has to be continually responsive to CUSTOMER traffic in the aisles.